The ultimate guide for roadtripping Madagascar | Guestblog by Geena Truman
Curious what it’s like to explore Madagascar by car? Travel writer Geena Truman and her husband set off on a three-week self-drive adventure - discovering remote national parks, epic landscapes, and rare wildlife along the way. They rented their 4x4 through Roadtrip Africa, giving them the freedom to travel at their own pace and off the beaten track.
Below you'll find a sneak peek of Geena’s favourite spots and practical tips. Want the full story? Follow the blog links to dive deeper and start planning your own Madagascar road trip.
Roadtripping Madagascar - what’s it like?
Madagascar is a dream for adventurous travellers: dramatic landscapes, rare wildlife, and a real sense of being off the beaten track. But roadtripping here isn’t quite like doing it in, say, Kenya or Tanzania. Madagascar is raw, remote and rugged, and that’s exactly what makes it so rewarding. If you're prepared, you'll have the trip of a lifetime.
When to go
The dry season - from late April to early November - is the best time for a road trip. Outside of this period, heavy rains can make many roads impassable. May is my favourite month to travel: just before peak season, when the weather is pleasant, and off-road areas like Tsingy de Bemaraha and Manja are usually open for visitors.
What to expect
The capital city, Antananarivo (Tana), is chaotic, and driving there can be tricky. I’d recommend staying just outside the city in Ivato, where things are a little more relaxed. Elsewhere in Madagascar, you’ll find super kind people, beautiful nature, and small-scale tourism. Luxury travel hasn’t really taken off yet, and that’s part of the charm.
Electricity and internet can be patchy, especially outside the main cities. Bring mosquito spray, a first aid kit, and a healthy dose of flexibility. That said, the food is delicious (think French-inspired local cuisine), and the landscapes are unforgettable.
Driving and road conditions
Driving in Madagascar takes time and patience. The RN7 - the main road from Tana to Tulear - is fully paved but often full of potholes. Off-road sections can be muddy, narrow, and slow-going. Not to worry though, with a proper 4x4 and some common sense, most routes are doable. Even if you’re new to self-driving.
Need an extra hand? Consider hiring a driver-guide or pisteur (local guide) to help you navigate trickier sections. On some routes, like the west coast near Morondava, a pisteur is even required due to the risk of quicksand.
A few practical tips
- Cash is king. ATMs are available in bigger towns, but don’t rely on your card everywhere.
- Stock up on groceries in Antananarivo. Shops in smaller towns have limited supplies.
- Petrol is easy to find along the main routes, but I do recommend always filling up when you’re below half a tank.
- Don’t rush! Travel is slow in Madagascar. You’ll need at least three weeks to see more than one region comfortably.
Camping in Madagascar
Planning to camp your way through Madagascar? Smart move. Accommodation near national parks can be pricey. And honestly, there’s no better way to soak up Madagascar’s stunning landscapes than by camping right in the middle of them.
First things first: how does camping in Madagascar work?
If you're renting a fully equipped 4x4 from Roadtrip Africa, you're all set, with a rooftop tent or ground tent, and basic camping gear included. Prefer to bring your own camping gear? You’ll still need your own car, as public transport doesn’t reach the wild and remote places you’ll want to visit.
Rooftop or ground tent?
Both work! A rooftop tent is a little more comfortable (and elevated from the bugs!), while a ground tent is the more budget-friendly option. The choice is yours, but we recommend going for the rooftop setup if you’re camping a lot.
Can you wild camp in Madagascar?
Technically, yes. In practice, it’s tricky. Madagascar is more populated than you might expect, and finding safe, empty space to wild camp is rare. Most travellers stick to designated campsites - some basic, others surprisingly luxurious.
Top 5 campsites not to miss
- Camp Catta (Andringitra National Park)
Possibly the best all-round campsite in Madagascar. Epic mountain views, hot showers, a pool, and frequent lemur sightings. Ideal base for hikers. - Betsileo Country Lodge (Anja Reserve)
A well-equipped, camper-friendly site with your own bathroom, grassy pitch, and stunning views. Worth the slightly higher price. - Mitsinjo Reserve (Andasibe)
Jungle camping at its wildest. No frills, but you're surrounded by rainforest and wildlife, and just minutes from the famous Indri lemurs. - Kirindy Reserve
Budget-friendly and full of wildlife. You might spot a rare fossa right from your tent. Night walks here are a must. - Baobab Avenue
Yes, you can camp right here. After the crowds leave, it’s just you, the stars, and the iconic 800-year-old trees. Bring your camera!
Final tips for campers
- Call ahead when possible; campsites aren’t always staffed 24/7.
- Bring warm layers, especially in the highlands. Nights can get chilly.
- Pack insect repellent, a headlamp, and a sense of adventure.
Want the full list of recommended campsites, wild camping tips, and places to skip? Read my full blog here: Best campsites in Madagascar.
And don’t forget to check out Roadtrip Africa’s 4x4 rental options with rooftop tents to get you there!
The very best things to do in Madagascar
You probably know Madagascar for its lemurs and legendary Baobab trees. But once you hit the road, you'll quickly see that this island has so much more to offer. Here are five unique things to add to your Madagascar bucket list:
- Spot indri’s in Andasibe
This rare lemur sings through the treetops like a jungle whale. For the best chance to spot (and hear) one, visit Mitsinjo Reserve early in the morning. - Visit Ranomafana’s rainforest hot springs
Wildlife-rich rainforest meets warm thermal pools - a perfect combo after a long drive on the RN7. - Walk among ring-tailed lemurs at Anja Reserve
Get up close with Madagascar’s most iconic lemur in this community-run reserve, surrounded by epic highland scenery. - Road trip on the scenic RN7
From rice terraces to rocky canyons, this is Madagascar’s most diverse and photogenic route. Every curve brings something new. - Camp under the peaks of Andringitra
Whether you hike or just hang out, Andringitra’s landscapes are jaw-dropping. Camp Catta is the place to stay for views, lemurs, and trails.
And that’s just the beginning! Discover all of my favourite things to do in Madagascar in this full blog: 15 unique things to do in Madagascar other than spot Baobab trees.
Need an itinerary? Follow these Madagascar self-drive road trip routes
Madagascar is incredibly diverse, from rainforests to deserts, lemurs to limestone peaks, and remote beaches to buzzing cities. That makes planning your route exciting… but also a bit overwhelming.
To make it easier, I’ve grouped the island’s top destinations by what you want to experience:
For wildlife lovers
- Andasibe National Park, specifically Mitsinjo Reserve
- Ranomafana National Park
- Isalo National Park
- Nosy Mangabe
- Anja Community Reserve
- Zombitze National Park
For iconic landscapes
- Andringitra National Park
- Isalo National Park
- Baobab Ave
- Tsingy de Bemahara
For beaches
- Nosy Be
- Île Sainte-Marie
- Ifaty is not too shabby for beaches, but definitely not the best on this list.
For trekking
- Andringitra National Park
- Tsingy de Bemahara
For super adventurous roads
- Tsingy de Bemahara
- Manja to Morondava
- East coast route (RN5)
Need more inspiration or a ready-to-go route?
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Check out my 11-day RN7 itinerary - great for a quick but full road trip.
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Or my 3-week itinerary, which takes you deeper into Madagascar’s parks and wild places.
Ready to hit the road?
I believe the front seat of a 4×4 is the best way to see any country, and therefore definitely recommend self-driving in Madagascar. It’s adventurous, beautiful and a trip you will never forget!
Want to dive in deeper? Then check out my full-length blogs via the link below:
As a freelance travel writer, Geena has made a career out of chasing adventures. Besides writing for Lonely Planet, Fodor's Travel, BBC Travel, and Business Insider, she runs her own travel blog Beyond the Bucketlist. Here, she shares helpful guides and tips for planning adventurous trips, including road trips abroad.
Did Geena’s stories get you excited for a self-drive trip to Madagascar? Check out our itineraries, and get in touch with us for a tailor-made road trip!